Jon's Watercolours - Paintings by Jon Webster
  Jons Watercolours - by Jon Webster
  • Home
  • About
  • Gallery
    • Botanical
    • Castles
    • Malaysia
    • Snow Scenes
    • India
    • Italy
    • Scotland
    • Ink and Colourwash
  • Blog
  • Demos
    • Sunset over Lake Vembanad - Step by step
    • Breaking Waves - Step by step
    • Romanian Monastery - Step by step
    • Gordes - Step by step
  • Tips & Techniques
    • Beginners Guide >
      • Basics - paper
      • Basics - watercolour paint
      • Basics - brushes
      • Basics - mixing colour
      • Basics - techniques
    • Design and Composition
    • Techniques >
      • Stretching Paper
      • Masking Fluid
      • Adding light to your paintings
    • Demonstrations
  • Links
  • Arty Bits
  • Contact

Brushes - Beginners Guide

A high quality sable brush has five key attributes: pointing (in a round, the tip of the tuft comes to a fine, precise point that does not splay or split; in a flat, the tuft forms a razor thin, perfectly straight edge); snap (or "spring"; the tuft flexes in direct response to the pressure applied to the paper, and promptly returns to its original shape); capacity (the tuft, for its size, holds a large bead of paint and does not release it as the brush is moved in the air); release (the amount of paint released is proportional to the pressure applied to the paper, and the paint flow can be precisely controlled by the pressure and speed of the stroke as the paint bead is depleted); and durability (a large, high quality brush may withstand decades of daily use). 

Beware of cheap brushes which are not properley shaped or have rough uneven bristles. They will not allow controlled fine strokes and cheaper rough brushes are likely to shed bristles leaving marks on your washes. They can be used for texture work or masking fluid though. You can however get many economic synthetic brushes.
Picture
Picture
A selection of watercolour brushes - #4 sable round, #10 sable round, 1/4" bright, wash mop, quill mop
Picture
Synthetic brushes can provide a quality alternative to sable at a more affordable price
Picture
Avoid brushes which are not shaped to give a point (left), rough uneven bristles (centre and right).

Styles of brush

Picture
  • Round: pointed tip, long closely arranged bristles for detail
  • Flat: for spreading paint quickly and evenly over a surface. They will have longer hairs than their Bright counterpart.
  • Bright: shorter than flats. 
  • Filbert: flat brushes with domed ends. They allow good coverage and the ability to perform some detail work.
  • Fan: for blending broad areas of paint.
  • Angle: like the filbert, these are versatile and can be applied in both general painting application as well as some detail work.
  • Mop: a larger format brush with a rounded edge for broad soft paint application as well as for getting thinner glazes over existing drying layers of paint without damaging lower layers.
  • Rigger: round brushes with longish hairs, traditionally used for painting the rigging in pictures of ships. They are useful for fine lines and are versatile for both oils and watercolors.
  • Stippler and deer-foot stippler: short, stubby rounds
  • Liner: elongated rounds
  • Dagger
  • Scripts: highly elongated rounds
  • Hake: An Asian style of brush with a large broad wooden handle and an extremely fine soft hair used in counterpoint to traditional Sumi brushes for covering large areas. Often made of goat hair.
  • Spotter: Round brushes with just a few short bristles. These brushes are commonly used in spotting photographic prints.
  • Stencil: A round brush with a flat top used on stencils to ensure the bristled don't get underneath. Also used to create texture.




Types of Bristle

Sable: The ultimate soft brush is made from the hairs on the tail of a sable marten; these taper naturally, so when they're put into a brush they form a point. Sable brushes are expensive, but are renowned for their softness, flexibility, and fine point. Kolinsky sable from Siberia has traditionally been considered the best hair for watercolour brushes.
Squirrel: Cheaper than sable, squirrel is a soft hair with little spring. Larger squirrel brushes work better than smaller ones because the mass of hairs together gives them support.
Hog/bristle: The ultimate hard brush is made from the hairs on the back of a pig (hog), which are strong yet springy. The bristles have natural split-ends, which increases the amount of paint they hold. Used for oils and acrylics.
Camel: Brushes labeled 'camel' hair are really made from other types of soft hair. Camel hair is unsuitable for brushes because it's too woolly.
Ox: Long, strong and springy hair. 

Brush Sizes

The size of a round brush is designated by a number, which may range from 0000 (for a very tiny round) to 0, then from 1 to 24 or higher. These numbers refer to the size of the brass brushmakers' mould used to shape and align the hairs of the tuft before it is tied off and trimmed, and as with shoe lasts, these sizes vary from one manufacturer to the next. In general a #12 round brush has a tuft about 2 to 2.5 cm long; tufts are generally fatter (wider) in brushes made in England than in brushes made on the Continent: a German or French #14 round is approximately the same size as an English #12. Flats may be designated either by a similar but separate numbering system, but more often are described by the width of the ferrule, measured in centimeters or inches.
more on Colour Mixing
Powered by Create your own unique website with customizable templates.